Locks, Dreadlocks, Micro Locks, Braid Locks, Sister locks, Lock extensions, starter locks, twist locks…the world of locks is grand! There are many ways to achieve locks on different types of hair. The ultimate goal is to have beautiful velvety ropes of hair, dangling beyond the shoulders.

There is so much information about locks, but I find that there are so many who still have many questions about them. Are they hygienic? Are they permanent? Are they hard to maintain?

Let’s start by describing locks. Locked hair is hair that has grown and matted together over time. Hair is twisted or formed to wrap around itself, creating a “rope”. Locked hair is like yarn that is old and has been washed over and over, and the fibers become matted and the defined threads begin to look like one whole piece.

When new, you can see the detail, the braids and the definition of the yarn, but when it has been washed over and over, it begins to look “kinky”, expands a bit and then mats together and compresses.

Locked hair can vary in size from Micro to Free Form.

Micro is like the size of a single piece of acrylic yarn, and then the sizes go up from there. Free Form locs can be as thick as a thumb to the thickness of ones wrist! In some cultures, Free Forming is normal and natural.

Starting Locks

Achieving micro locks can be done in various ways. One of the

most unique ways to achieve them is by installing

Sisterlocks. Created  by Dr. JoAnne Cornwell,These locks

are small, like the size of micro braids, and range a bit, but not

usually to a very large size. Hundreds of locks are installed on

natural or relaxed/chemically treated hair, and maintained

utilizing a special tool and method. To learn more about

Sisterlocks, please visit the website. It is also important to

know that Sisterlocks are installed by professionally trained

individuals and are not meant to do on your own. The

greatest thing about them are that you don’t have to cut

off all of your relaxed hair in order to start Sisterlocks.

Nappylocs is a trademarked interlocking method that uses a tool to maintain the new growth. This method can be done on your own as the kit comes with a book, DVD and tool to help you get started and learn to maintain your locs.

Interlocking the hair is a great way to begin smaller locks. Interlocking is not hard to do once you learn how to do it. There are various videos that offer demonstrations on how to interlock the hair to form locks. Desired sized sections of hair are parted and then “locked” by starting at the very end of the hair by tying it in a knot. Then you slide your finger from the scalp down, separating the hair into two sections. You grab the end of the hair and pull it through each loop you create from the bottom to the top. You work your way up the section of hair until it looks like it has been crocheted, you can also use a latch hook to perform this method. Describing it in writing makes it sound more difficult than what it is.

Bradelocz is another method whereby you can achieve locks from micro sized to large by simply braiding the hair in the desired sized sections. The key thing to know about this method is that a latch hook is used to maintain these locks. A latch hook is a small metal tool with a plastic base, that has a latch (like for crocheting). It can be purchased for under $2.00 depending on where you go, and visiting the website will offer you a book on how to use the latch hook in order to maintain the locks. The Bradelocz method was created by Cherie King and she offers an extensive look at her own process. There are also videos that demonstrate how to use the latch hook and how to tighten new growth.

Creating braids that eventually turn into locks is a very simple method. The benefits of using this method is that the hair is braided among itself, so shampooing hair on a regular schedule is possible. Also various styling methods are possible using this method almost immediately! One negative about braid locks is that it takes a long time for the braids to grow out and “look” like locks. They don’t matte right away and look like braids for at least one year or more. It may look odd when your hair is growing out and from the scalp, the hair is locked or looks more like locks and the ends are braided. See photos of braid locks here.

Two strand twists is a way to create locks as well. This is

when hair is separated into two sections and twisted together.

This method is simple and has the ability to last during

shampoos, however, there may need to be more fuss each

time you wet your hair. Two strand twists are prone to coming

loose more frequently than with Sisterlocks or Bradelocz. This

method also takes a long time to look like locks. The twists are

more obvious as the hair grows out than with braids.

Single twists is probably the most common way that

locks are started. This is how I started my own. I simply

shampooed my hair and applied a leave in conditioner. I

then used a non alcoholic gel to twist small sections of my

hair around my finger in one direction. I used my finger to

part the sections and made the locks small in size. Locks

will almost double in thickness as they go through a

plumping stage and mature. These locks are maintained by

shampooing the hair and re twisting the new growth near

the scalp. This method takes a longer time to lock up

because there was no interlocking or braiding involved,

something that keeps the hair tighter or wrapped around itself. You can create single twisted

locks in any size on the hair.

Back combing to create locks is when hair is sectioned in the desired size. Next, the hair is combed with a small toothed comb, from the top of the section to the bottom. It can also be called “ratting” because appears to be like the fur of a mangled rat. Once the hair has been back combed, it then is twisted upon itself in knots with wax, and palm rolled to create a lock. This method gives the immediate appearance of locks, but still takes time to truly matte together and be a lock.

Freeform locks can either be started by any of the aforementioned methods, then allowed to grow out without grooming and maintaining them thereafter. Or you can simply let your hair grow out for as long as you like, however you like.  Free Form locks are also known as dreadlocks, organic locks or neglected locks. The sizes will vary on each lock and they often are quite large, even the size of your own wrist. Free Formed locks can be cleaned, but are harder to keep clean because of the size and the lack of grooming.Free Forming has long been linked to the ways of Rastafarians for religious reasons.

Genie Locks/Nu Locks/Yarn Braids- This is a temporary method to locking hair. It looks natural but doesn’t have any stages or waiting period for them to look like locks. There are a few methods that have been recognized by Black Hair magazines in the 90s, but you don’t see it as often now. Nevertheless, Genie Locks or Nu Locks are locks created by using yarn. Hair is braided just like you would for braid extensions and the yarn is braided onto the hair. It can also be twisted. Once the hair has been braided to the desired length, the braids can be knotted and burned at the ends or wrapped with more yarn to create a smooth appearance and eliminate the appearance of braids.  This is good when you create yarn braids on hair that isn’t the same color as the yarn. They can last up to 3 months without the hair locking, depending on the texture, and it is a great protective style in the winter months.

Maintaining Locks

There are some tools that can be used to maintain locks. Sisterlocks has its own tool, however there are others:

 

 

Nappylocs tools come in a few sizes and offers a book and videos to

show you how to maintain locks using the tool.

 

 

 

 

 

A latch hook can be purchased at beauty

supply stores everywhere. You can also

use a crochet hook, if you are good

with your hands and don’t mind learning

and figuring some things out. The latch

hook is the official tool used to maintain

Bradelocz.

For twisting, you just need your index finger and thumb, and palm rolling is when you take the lock and hold it between your palms and roll the hair in one direction. It is important to roll or twist the hair in the same direction so that it will not come apart or delay the locking process.

Lock Methods for Different Types of Hair

Locking is already a process that requires patience, so if you have a straighter, more silky hair type, seeing results may take a while. It can take 6 months to 1 year or more for hair to lock. The tighter the curl, the less time it takes, in many cases.

Tightly coiled or curled hair can be locked using any of the methods mentioned above, except for back combing, which isn’t necessary. The hair, generally, is full and thick, and the curls are tight enough to wrap around themselves even in the early stages. Two strand twists would be less likely to come apart on this type of hair also.

Wavy hair may benefit most from being Sisterlocked, Interlocked or braided to create locks. This type of hair appears fuzzy rather quickly and needs to be groomed in addition to being tightened with a tool. So once the new growth has been tightened, palm rolling may be necessary so the hair doesn’t appear to be wayward.

Straight hair, generally found on Caucasian, Hispanic, and Asian hair, can be interlocked, but back combing is more frequently used as a method to locking the hair.

Chemically relaxed hair can be locked and it is recommended that Sisterlocks or Interlocking are used. Bradelocz can also be used. It is important to know that at some point, however, the chemically treated hair should be cut off. There will be a point (demarcation) that the hair will break off anyway, so locking hair in this manner will mean that there may be some length in the beginning, but then it will have to be cut so the locks can form properly. This type of hair, also, will take a longer time to lock. The sooner the chemical is cut off, the better the chances of locking sooner.

On short hair, it may be best to braid the hair to create locks or, again, Sisterlocks.

Hair that has obvious variations of texture may benefit most from Bradelocz.

Longer hair, especially when natural, can use any method. Single twisting, however, is a good recommendation because it will look more uniform going all the way down.

 

Stages of Locking

The stages of locks can best be described in “life stages”.

Baby Locks: Locks from conception to the point of matting for the first time. They are generally soft and pliable and can come apart easily. It is important in this stage to be very careful with them, not to wet them too often. It is recommended that you wait at least 3 weeks before immersing them in water, but use witch hazel or an astringent to cleanse the scalp during this time. If your hair is on the wavy or straight side, you will certainly want to wait to get them wet, but it is less crucial when using other methods like interlocking or braiding. This stage lasts about 3-6 months, give or take, depending on your hair texture.

Styling baby locks: Using clip on barrettes, thin head bands, and even a cowry shell or beads can adorn your baby locks and give them a little sass! You don’t want to over do it with products and accessories, though. Just a little bit can go a long way.

Teenage Locks: The funky, in between stage when locks aren’t

hanging or well formed. They stand up, uncoil, flatten and may be

hard to style. There isn’t much you can do at this stage while they

are “wild ‘n out”, but you can begin to shampoo them more

regularly. When doing so, it is best to remember to pull them

apart, or keep them separated so they don’t join. Also you may

have more styling options by now. This stage lasts from about 6

-12 months. Much patience is necessary during this stage.

Styling Teenage Locks: A wider headband can be used now, and even bigger clips. There are so many. You can also do some combination styles, like flat twists in the front and a starburst of locks in back. This stage often is a “hat stage”. There are many beautiful hats, crocheted, wool and more to floss up your locks. It’s always neat to allow the locks to peek through when wearing a hat. If you are even more creative, roller sets on sponge rollers or jherri curl rods are a great way to disguise the various lengths and textures your locks are in.

 

 

Mature/Adult Locks: (You may even want to call this the Promised Land!) We long for this moment when the locks are matted from top to bottom with no gaps or loose ends. They are strong and pretty much the same size from tip to base. You can shampoo your hair as often as you like and you can wait a longer time to maintain them. Styling mature locks, well there are endless possiblities from corn rows to flat twists, curl and updos. You can do just about anything without much worry.

Be aware, however, of keeping locks from drying out. They can become brittle no matter how old and long they are, and can fall off right at the scalp!!!

Clean Hair is Healthy Hair!

Maintaining locks is different at each stage, but equally important for a healthy head of hair. When you begin the process, like me, you may go through several products and methods in maintaining your locks until you find what works for you.

Cleansing the scalp in the baby stage is  most important. You don’t have to wait months to shampoo the hair!  Softer textures may unravel more often than tightly coiled hair, but using witch hazel or an astringent cleanser on a cotton pad will cleanse the scalp without disturbing the actual locks as they grow and matte.  In this stage, also, if you use braids, twists or an interlocking method, you will want to braid sections of the hair together and put a rubber band on the end to discourage the unraveling and bunching of your locks. This is called braiding and banding.

In the teenage stage, you can shampoo the hair, but it is important here to remember that the locks have to be pulled apart or separated so they don’t grow together. You can use a gentle cleanser and it is good to get in the habit of using a leave in conditioner. Using a cream conditioner may not be practical at this stage because it may cause the locks to come apart or loosen, and the locking process and progress will be delayed. In this stage, it may still be necessary to “braid and band” the hair to prevent the locks from unraveling, but this too shall pass.

Mature locks can be shampooed as often as you like and you may also use hot oil treatments and cream conditioners, in moderation. I have found that the greatest need my hair has is for water. I use a mix of water and a leave in conditioner and have gotten away from creams and moisturizers altogether.

Keeping the hair and scalp clean are key to having healthy and strong locks.  The thicker and longer your locks become, it may be necessary to cleanse them in sections. If you do not have a shampoo bowl or a sink sprayer, the shower is a great way to do so. You can create large sections of the hair and shampoo from the scalp down to the ends of the hair, allowing the water to run until it is clean of shampoo. Avoid rubbing the locks together or in a circular motion. The agitation may cause the locks to become thin, and vulnerable.

Problem Areas

THIN HAIR: If your hair is thin, it is ok. Locks may be installed, smaller around the edges and larger in the middle. The sizes should not be too drastic, however. You will be surprised as to how thick the hair becomes as the locks grow. They do almost double in thickness and you will find that you may be able to even form new locks in the spaces where no hair once grew! These locks can still have various styles. Two styles recommended for fullness are the braid out and a roller set. Each gives the locks texture that creates a fullness your locks wouldn’t have if they just hung straight down. (A braid out is when you either braid the locks in sections or corn row them into sections while wet, then allow them to dry and pull them apart. The look is wavy)

THICK HAIR: The thicker the hair, the larger you may want your locks to be. Although you can achieve micro locks on thick hair, maintaining them can take up to 4 hours, depending on if you do it yourself or have someone do it for you. Thick hair with thin locks also tend to grow up and out before they show a lot of length. They will DEFINITELY be full though! If you already have thick hair with hundreds of tiny locks, you may want to consider combining them to give them some weight and begin to show some of the long awaited length.

BI RACIAL HAIR: While some think that Bi racial hair is GREAT, some think it is difficult to manage. With lots of trial and error and patience you will find a routine and products that work best for your hair type. When locking Bi racial hair, the interlocking methods have been one of the most successful ways to lock the hair. Though there may be fuzz, the locks are less likely to unravel once they have been interlocked.

SCALP CONDITIONS: If you have chronic dry scalp, psoriasis, eczema, oily patches or other medical conditions, it is best to keep the hair and scalp clean and follow doctor’s advice on how to care for your hair. It is true that some things will not go away and you have to live with it, but it doesn’t mean that you cannot wear locks or that you have to let them go, unless it truly interferes with the scalp condition. Be sure not to re-twist or re-tighten the hair too tight as it could cause irritation to the scalp. Your scalp may begin to itch, develop small bumps and the hair could fall out (also known as alopecia). If you have a preexisting scalp condition, consult your physician/dermatologist before installing locks, especially if you are going to pay to have it done. If your hair is chemically treated, going natural (cutting off the relaxer) may be the greatest step to your healing.

JOINED LOCKS: Also known as two headed dragons is when two locks have grown together and have not been pulled apart when shampooed. It is easy to miss some locks, especially if you have a lot of them, but it is not too terrible to have a two headed dragon. You can fix this problem by snipping off one of the “heads” and sewing it back onto the end of the lock or a lock that is shorter in another area of your head. You may also twist the two heads together and eventually they will matte and form a single lock. If you aren’t too picky, you can leave it alone or lop it off and toss it.

INCOMPLETE LOCKS: The lock is solid at the top and the bottom, but loose or flat in the middle. You can either take a small pin and unravel the lock from the bottom to the loose section and then interlock or latch it to the end, or if you are an expert, you can latch the loose hair right where it is using  a tool. Follow the same method to latching but you just won’t be starting at the top or the bottom.

LINTY LOCKS: It happens to the best of us. We don’t always wear a scarf or use a satin pillow case for our hair although it is best to. The least and the most you can do about linty locks is to take a permanent marker in the right color and coloring the locks that are linty or simply dying the locks. The dye will cover the lint. An ACV (Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse) May also help remove the lint build up.

SMELLY LOCKS: This happens, too. When locks get longer and longer, they take longer to dry. They can also become mildewed. It’s as  simple as using apple cider vinegar to rinse the hair and remove product build up. Other products to use would be lavender or jojoba, those are stripping agents, being careful not to use too much of any product. A minted shampoo may also aid in the scent issue of mildew hair, just keep it light. The best thing is to let the hair dry completely before going to bed or putting on a hat or scarf. You can sit under a bonnet dryer as well. (Also try the ACV Rinse)

THINNING LOCKS: This is different from having thin hair where you can see the scalp easily when the hair is parted. Thinning locks can occur from over twisting, tightening, and styling. You can overdo it with locks. They are strong, but as they get longer and older, they become more and more brittle. It is best to keep the hair moist and clean and avoid doing styles and such that are too tight. Thin locks can be combined with a neighboring lock to make a stronger, single lock.

TOO HEAVY: Well, this can happen too. There are times when the locks are so thick and heavy that it hurts. You can cut them shorter or you can actually split them. This takes a long time and it tedious. Locks CAN BE UNRAVELED, but it takes such a time depending on how old they are. If you do this, the locks should be wet and use a lot of conditioner (it may remind you of taking out micro braids). You can take them down and start again, cut them off and start again, or you could try cutting them up the middle, then palm rolling them in hopes of them not looking like a half flat lock and developing into a rounded lock again. Quite often though, heavy locks are often styled on top of the head. Pony tails, updos, head wraps and buns are great ways to keep them off your back and won’t weigh you down.

STILL LOOSE AFTER A YEAR: On average it takes a good year for hair to lock, but in some cases, even then, the hair is still loose on the ends. If you did not use an interlocking or braiding method, keeping the hair close knit may be hard for you. Palm rolling is always good because it does keep the frizz down, but you may also want to consider changing the size of the locks or using another method to maintain them. Also as the early stages are very experimental, keep in mind especially if your hair is wavy or loosely curled, to avoid lots of products, oils and creams. A water and leave in conditioner spritz is good enough and careful attention to grooming and re-tightening may encourage the hair to behave.

 

Using a tool to maintain the hair also eliminates or greatly decreases the need for extra products in the hair. This prevents product build up and often, tool maintained hair is stronger at the base, near the scalp.

If you are considering locking your hair, it is a good thing to do your research. You will need to determine what size locks you want to have and what method you wish to use. One of the greatest sources for inspiration and encouragement is The Locked Hair Blog Exchange. This site was started by a Sisterlock client. Here you find men and women, even children, of all ages, races and cultures who have locks. This site is wonderful because everyone is unique. Each individual has locks that look nothing like the next person. There are various methods used, styles and more to learn about. Check out  10 Books for your Natural Hair Library

Locks are one of the most versatile ways to wear your hair. They are durable and can grow as long as you want them to. Also they look good on all types of hair, even if it is thin. If you are considering taking this journey or are well on your way, Keep on moving and don’t stop!

That’s the Lock Down!